Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Autumn/Winter 2022

Navy Check Madras Cotton Button-Down Popover Shirt

This popover shirt belongs to a limited range made with Jason Jules, co-author of Black Ivy: A Revolt in Style, and draws on the Ivy dress of the middle of the last century. Its cloth is a hand-spun madras from Chennai, the city once called Madras, in a navy check whose natural dyes are expected to run and soften as it is washed and worn. It is made in Somerset with single-needle seams, a button-down collar and a pen pocket, and is meant for warm weather alongside pleated trousers and loafers.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Portuguese Blue and Red Plaid Twill

We could not find a true madras among Proper Cloth's cloths, so we chose a Portuguese cotton plaid in blue and red as the closest match to the original's colouring and medium-scale check. We kept the shape of the shirt as close as the options allowed: a soft Ivy button-down collar, a popover front, a one-button cuff, a curved hem and mother of pearl buttons. Proper Cloth offers no pen pocket, so we fitted an angled chest pocket in its place, and we chose a barrel cuff because no rounded single cuff was available.

A single-ply cotton twill in 50s yarns from the Portuguese mill Somelos, soft in the hand and described by Proper Cloth as medium weight, sitting somewhere between shirting and flannel. It is woven in a plaid of blue and red and is intended as a casual cloth for autumn and winter.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
lightweight
Care
Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft Ivy Button Down
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Popover
Pocket
Angled Pocket
Yoke
One Piece Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.2″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$175

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.