Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Autumn/Winter 2022

Blackwatch Check Brushed Cotton Two-Pocket Work Shirt

Drake's two-pocket work shirt borrows the outline of a practical outdoor overshirt and makes it in the house's shirting workshop in Somerset. This version is cut from a thick brushed cotton in Blackwatch tartan, the dark regimental check of navy, green and black. Pleated flap pockets, a spread collar and rounded cuffs give it the look of a utility garment, while single-needle seams and mother of pearl buttons are carried over from the firm's dress shirts. It is meant for casual wear, either alone or as a light layer.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Japanese Blackwatch Tartan Flannel

We chose a Japanese cotton flannel in Blackwatch tartan because it matches the original's dark navy and green check and its soft, brushed handle closely. We set a soft spread collar, one-button cuffs, a plain front placket, two pleated flap pockets of the safari type and mother of pearl buttons to follow the Drake's details. Proper Cloth's cloth is listed as heavyweight, so it is likely to be somewhat heavier than the original. We chose a shallow curved hem and a one-piece yoke, and no back pleat was specified.

A heavyweight cotton flannel woven in Japan from 30s single-ply yarn in a distinct twill, brushed to a thick, soft surface. The pattern is a detailed Blackwatch plaid in deep navy and forest green, dark enough to read as nearly black from a distance, and the cloth is made to give warmth in cold weather without becoming stuffy.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
heavyweight
Care
Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft English Spread
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Soft Front Placket
Pocket
Safari Pockets
Yoke
One Piece Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.25″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$175

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.