Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2023

Blue Madras Check Linen Smock Shirt

This popover shirt joins Drake's linen and cotton madras check to the old smock pattern, with fullness gathered into the collar and the sleeve heads. It is cut relaxed and pulls on over the head, closing at the neck with a loop and button instead of a full front placket. The cloth is made to fade and soften with washing, so the shirt is meant to be worn often and casually through the summer. It is made in Drake's Somerset factory with single-needle seams and whipped mother of pearl buttons.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Albini Blue Navy and Ivory Linen Madras

We chose an Albini linen madras in blue, navy and ivory because it keeps the irregular check and the light summer weight of the original. We set it up as a popover with a soft one-piece collar, one-button barrel cuffs, a one-piece yoke, a straight hem, no chest pocket and mother of pearl buttons. Proper Cloth does not offer smock gathering or a loop fastening, so we used a plain soft collar, plain cuffs and a standard popover placket in their place.

A pure linen plain-weave madras from the Italian weaver Albini, light in weight and spun in 23s yarns, with a dry, open hand. The plaid runs in blue, navy and ivory with the uneven character typical of madras. It is given a casual wash, so it arrives soft and keeps a relaxed, rumpled look as it is worn.

Composition
100% Linen
Weight
lightweight
Care
The casual wash does the work of a full season's wear before you've tried it on, softening the linen from the first morning you reach for it. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft One Piece
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Popover
Pocket
No Pocket
Yoke
One Piece Yoke
Hem
Straight Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.25″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
No sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$195

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Opens with this cloth chosen. Set the options above, then your size.