Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2025

Black Linen Twill Two-Pocket Western Shirt

Drake's takes the familiar Western shirt, long a staple of ranch and rodeo dress, and builds it in black linen twill for the warmer months. It is made in Italy with single-needle seams, mother of pearl buttons, edge-stitched single-point front yokes and a pair of double-point flap pockets on the chest. The linen is meant to soften, crease and fade gently over a season, and the shirt is intended to be worn casually, with its rumpled texture left as it is.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Japanese Washed Black Heavy Rustic Linen Twill

We kept to black linen twill in a solid colour so the cloth would match the original in fibre, weave and shade. Proper Cloth's black linen twill is a much heavier Japanese cloth, and it is washed after sewing, which gives it the faded, creased look of the original, though with more body. We set a western front, western yoke, western pockets and mother of pearl buttons to follow the Drake's details. Proper Cloth offers no barrel cuff to match, so we chose a soft square two-button cuff, and we used a soft point collar and a shallow curved hem.

A 100% linen twill woven in Japan at about 348 gsm from 25s yarns, with a clear diagonal twill and natural slubs that give the surface texture. It is a washed, faded black with a dense, substantial hand closer to heavy cotton than to summer linen; it creases readily and softens with wear, and the garment wash leaves some puckering along the seams.

Composition
100% Linen
Weight
heavyweight
Care
Casual Wash: Shirts cut in this fabric are washed after being sewn. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft Point
Cuffs
Soft Square Two Button
Placket
Western Front
Pocket
Western Pockets
Yoke
Western Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.1″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$215

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.