After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2026
Black Cotton Mandarin Collar Shirt
A black cotton shirt with a mandarin collar, made at Drake's factory in Somerset. The band collar comes from older workwear and grandad shirts, where a shirt was often worn without a separate collar. Drake's pairs it with a curved button-flap chest pocket, single-needle seams and mother of pearl buttons. Fastened to the neck it looks spare and severe, and worn open it is more relaxed.
In Proper Cloth
Greenwich Black Twill
We chose a solid black cotton twill of medium weight to match the colour, weave and fibre of the original. We set the details to follow Drake's: a grandad collar, a front placket, one-button barrel cuffs, a single flap chest pocket, a one-piece yoke and mother of pearl buttons. Proper Cloth offers no stonewashed equivalent of the English fustian cloth, so the Greenwich twill is smoother and dressier in hand. The hem is a shallow curve because no straight hem was set.
A European-woven twill in 100s two-ply cotton, closely woven and of medium weight. It is a deep, solid black with a smooth, faintly lustrous surface. It drapes well and feels more substantial and formal than most casual black shirtings.
- Composition
- 100% Cotton
- Weight
- medium weight
- Care
- Finish: No Treatment.
Options
- Collar
- Grandad
- Cuffs
- Soft One Button Barrel
- Placket
- Soft Front Placket
- Single Flap Pocket
- Yoke
- One Piece Yoke
- Hem
- Shallow Curved Hem
- Buttons
- Mother of Pearl
- Stitching
- 0.2″ Stitching
- Sleeve placket
- Sleeve placket button
- Adjustable cuffs
- No adjustable cuff buttons
$175
Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.