After Drake’s · Autumn/Winter 2025
Green Cotton Twill Military Overshirt
This is a shirt-jacket in olive cotton twill, a type of garment that comes from both workwear and military dress. The design draws on British uniforms of the twentieth century and gets its practical character from twin gusseted chest pockets, adjustable cuffs and a stepped hem. The cloth is a heavy English cotton from a mill known for fustian, and it has enough body to hang in a distinct way. Mother of pearl buttons give a finer finish to an otherwise hard-working piece, which is cut boxy to wear over other layers and is made in Portugal.
In Proper Cloth
Japanese Olive Cotton Selvedge Twill
We chose a Japanese selvedge cotton twill in a warm olive because it is the closest Proper Cloth match to the original's solid green twill and its rugged, natural texture. We set a soft point collar, soft front placket, flapped safari pockets as the nearest equivalent to the gusset pockets, adjustable cuffs and mother of pearl buttons to follow the original's details. Proper Cloth does not offer a stepped hem, so we used a straight hem. The original's front yoke panel is replaced by a standard one-piece yoke.
The cloth is a Japanese selvedge twill in 100% cotton, woven from 20s single-ply yarns. It is medium heavyweight and solid olive green. The shirt is washed after sewing, which leaves a soft, broken-in hand and some puckering at the seams, and the selvedge construction is meant to make it hard-wearing.
- Composition
- 100% Cotton
- Weight
- medium heavyweight
- Care
- The finish of this fabric is very soft, like its been loved for many years already, thanks to a special casual wash. Casual Wash: Shirts cut in this fabric are washed after being sewn. Finish: No Treatment.
Options
- Collar
- Soft Point
- Cuffs
- Soft One Button Barrel
- Placket
- Soft Front Placket
- Safari Pockets
- Yoke
- One Piece Yoke
- Hem
- Straight Hem
- Buttons
- Mother of Pearl
- Stitching
- Double Stitching
- Sleeve placket
- Sleeve placket button
- Adjustable cuffs
- Adjustable cuff buttons
$195
Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.