Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Autumn/Winter 2025

Navy Cotton Military Overshirt

Drake's navy overshirt belongs to a long line of shirt-jackets that came out of both workwear and military uniform. This version draws on British service dress of the twentieth century, with twin gusseted chest pockets, button-adjustable cuffs and a stepped hem. It is cut boxy and straight from a sturdy English cotton twill, made at a mill known for fustian, so it can be worn as a light outer layer over a shirt or knitwear.

The original, on drakes.com

In Proper Cloth

Rustic Navy Slub Twill

We chose a heavyweight navy cotton twill from Japan because it matches the original's solid dark colour and its weight, and its slubbed yarns give the cloth some of the surface texture of a fustian. We set an unfused soft point collar, a soft front placket, flapped utility chest pockets, mother of pearl buttons and adjustable cuff buttons to follow the original's details. Proper Cloth does not offer a stepped hem, so we used a straight hem. Its utility pockets stand in for the military gusset pockets with pointed flaps.

A heavyweight Japanese cotton twill woven from thick, coarse single-ply yarns, with a slubbed surface that makes it look and feel rough and rustic. The navy is dark and slightly uneven in tone. It is a hard-wearing, casual cloth that should soften with washing and wear.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
heavyweight
Care
Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft Point
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Soft Front Placket
Pocket
Utility Pockets
Yoke
One Piece Yoke
Hem
Straight Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.25″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
Adjustable cuff buttons

$195

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.