Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2025

Blue and Ecru Stripe Tie Front Lightweight Overshirt

Drake's overshirt draws on Eastern leisure clothing of the twentieth century. It closes with fabric ties rather than buttons and has a Mandarin collar. Otherwise it is a familiar overshirt with a single patch pocket on the chest. It is cut loose and left unlined from a light cotton and flax cloth, so it hangs softly and can be worn over a shirt or a T-shirt.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Baird McNutt Blue Irish Linen Stripe

We chose a lightweight Irish linen in a blue stripe because it is close to the original's blue and ecru stripe, plain weave and dry, slightly irregular surface. We matched the band collar, the single square chest pocket, the straight hem and the clean French front. Proper Cloth does not offer a tie fastening, so we used cream horn buttons, which are near the ecru ground. We also chose one-button barrel cuffs, as the original's sleeve finish is not recorded.

The cloth is a pure linen plain weave woven and finished by Baird McNutt, a mill in Northern Ireland whose history goes back to 1798. It is a lightweight 25s cloth with a soft, textured hand and the uneven slubs typical of linen. It has a blue stripe and will crease and soften with wear.

Composition
100% Linen
Weight
lightweight
Care
Though it’s historically been used in many different environments for its insulating properties, we’re all familiar with linen’s fantastic lightness and breathability in hotter climates, and this one delivers beyond expectation. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Band
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
French Front
Pocket
Single Square Pocket
Yoke
One Piece Yoke
Hem
Straight Hem
Buttons
Cream Horn
Stitching
0.25″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
No sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$185

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.