Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2025

Olive Cotton Overshirt

Drake's overshirt belongs to a family of garments that grew out of workwear and military clothing and settled into everyday dress as something between a shirt and a light jacket. This version takes its lead from twentieth-century work garments, with three flapped outer pockets, an easy, boxy cut and a straight hem. It is made in a midweight organic cotton twill and finished with mother of pearl buttons, which give a practical garment a slightly finer edge. It is meant to be worn loose over a T-shirt or knit, either buttoned or open, as an outer layer in mild weather.

The original, on drakes.com

In Proper Cloth

Japanese Olive Cotton Selvedge Twill

We chose a Japanese olive cotton selvedge twill because it matches the original's colour, solid face and twill weave, and its washed, broken-in finish echoes the textured, slubby surface of the Drake's cloth. We kept the straight hem, the single-button cuffs and the mother of pearl buttons. Proper Cloth does not offer the same camp collar or three-pocket arrangement in this design, so we used a soft point collar with an unfused soft front placket and a single flapped chest pocket, which keeps the relaxed, workwear character of the piece but reads more as a field shirt than a shirt-jacket.

A 100% cotton selvedge twill woven in Japan from 20s single-ply yarns, in a warm, solid olive green. It is listed as medium heavyweight and is given a casual wash after the shirt is sewn, so it arrives soft, with a worn-in hand and some puckering along the seams, and should continue to soften with wear.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
medium heavyweight
Care
The finish of this fabric is very soft, like its been loved for many years already, thanks to a special casual wash. Casual Wash: Shirts cut in this fabric are washed after being sewn. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft Point
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Soft Front Placket
Pocket
Single Flap Pocket
Yoke
One Piece Yoke
Hem
Straight Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.25″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$195

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.