Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2025

Ecru Linen Twill Smock

The smock started as a working garment, worn by painters and labourers alike, and has since moved into the wardrobe of men who care about clothes. Drake's version is cut in pure linen as a light outer layer, short at the hip and slightly relaxed through the body. It is meant to be pulled over a T-shirt on cool evenings or in a spring shower, and it is made in the company's factory in Somerset.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Japanese Washed Off White Heavy Rustic Linen

We chose an off-white Japanese linen twill because it matches the original's fibre, weave and pale undyed colour. It is noticeably heavier than Drake's lightweight cloth, which suits a garment worn over other things. We set a popover front, a soft point collar, a rounded chest patch pocket, a straight hem and mother of pearl buttons to follow the original. Proper Cloth does not offer a loop closure at the neck or an interior pocket, so we used a standard buttoned popover placket and left out the inside pocket.

A 100% linen twill woven in Japan at 348 gsm. The twill is pronounced and there is natural slub in the yarn, so the surface has a visible texture, and the cloth has a body closer to heavy cotton than to typical summer linen. It is washed once the garment is sewn, which softens the hand and puckers the seams, and it will crease and soften further as it is worn.

Composition
100% Linen
Weight
heavyweight
Care
Wear it open over a tee, or on its own with light wash jeans. Casual Wash: Shirts cut in this fabric are washed after being sewn. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft Point
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Popover
Pocket
Rounded Pocket
Yoke
One Piece Yoke
Hem
Straight Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.25″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
No sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$215

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.