Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2026

Green Cotton Twill Three-Pocket Overshirt

An olive overshirt in brushed cotton twill, drawn from the work and military garments that gave rise to the shirt-jacket. Its design looks to twentieth-century workwear, with three flapped outer pockets, a relaxed body and a straight hem. Horn buttons add a finer note to an otherwise practical piece, which is made in Portugal and meant to be worn as a light outer layer over a shirt or knit.

The original, on drakes.com

In Proper Cloth

Japanese Olive Cotton Selvedge Twill

We chose a Japanese selvedge cotton twill in a similar olive, as its soft, garment-washed finish comes closest to the brushed hand of the original's peached cloth. We matched the soft point collar, barrel cuffs, straight hem and brown horn buttons. Proper Cloth does not offer the original's arrangement of three flapped pockets, so we set a rounded patch pocket instead, and we chose a French front, which gives a cleaner front than the topstitched placket of the original.

A 100% cotton twill woven in Japan on selvedge looms from 20s single-ply yarn, in a warm olive green. It is a medium heavyweight cloth, and it is washed after the shirt is sewn, which gives it a soft, broken-in hand and some puckering at the seams.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
medium heavyweight
Care
The finish of this fabric is very soft, like its been loved for many years already, thanks to a special casual wash. Casual Wash: Shirts cut in this fabric are washed after being sewn. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft Point
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
French Front
Pocket
Rounded Pocket
Yoke
One Piece Yoke
Hem
Straight Hem
Buttons
Brown Horn
Stitching
0.25″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$195

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.