Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
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Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2024

St. JOHN by Drake's Navy Check Linen Fatigue Jacket

The fatigue jacket from St. JOHN by Drake's sits between a chore coat and an overshirt, taking its outline and pocketing from military work garments. It is cut from a lightweight navy and ecru checked linen and made in Portugal. It is unlined and built like a shirt, with three outer patch pockets including a small ticket pocket, two poacher pockets inside, adjustable cuffs and a collar that fastens with a leather loop tab at the back of the neck. It is made to be worn open over a shirt or T-shirt in warm weather, or buttoned up as a light outer layer.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Leomaster Navy Small Plaid Italian Linen

We chose a small navy plaid linen from Leomaster because it comes closest to the original's small grid check and the dry, slightly irregular surface of pure linen. We matched the point collar, front placket, straight hem, mother of pearl buttons and adjustable cuffs. Proper Cloth's shirt options do not include the multiple patch pockets, the interior poacher pockets or the leather collar tab, so we used a single square chest pocket and accepted a garment that reads as a shirt rather than a jacket. We chose the soft unfused construction to keep it as unstructured as the original.

A plain-weave linen in single-ply 20s yarn from the Italian mill Leomaster, of medium weight, with a dry hand and a loose drape. The small plaid is worked in several muted navy shades that blend into one another, and the uneven linen yarn softens the lines of the check. It creases as linen does and keeps cool in warm weather.

Composition
100% Linen
Weight
medium weight
Care
Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft Point
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Soft Front Placket
Pocket
Single Square Pocket
Yoke
One Piece Yoke
Hem
Straight Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.25″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
Adjustable cuff buttons

$255

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.