Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2024

Navy Cotton Field Shirt

This is a heavy cotton overshirt in navy twill, made to be worn over a shirt or knitwear as an outer layer. Its design looks back to British military shirting of the twentieth century, which shows in the paired flapped breast pockets, reinforced cuffs and square hem. The cloth is an Italian cotton chosen for weight and drape, and the shirt is made in Portugal with single-needle seams and horn buttons.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Rustic Navy Slub Twill

We chose a heavyweight navy cotton twill to match the original's colour, weave and weight, settling on a Japanese cloth with a slubby, slightly uneven surface. We set a soft semi-spread collar as the nearest option to the original's spread collar, with one-button barrel cuffs, a front placket, utility breast pockets and brown horn buttons. Proper Cloth offers a straight hem rather than a distinctly square one, so we used that. The cloth has more visible texture than the original's smoother Italian twill.

A heavyweight cotton twill woven in Japan from thick, single-ply yarns, giving it a dense, hard-wearing body. Slubs in the yarn leave a textured, slightly irregular surface in a dark navy with subtle tonal variation. It is a casual, rugged cloth that should soften with wear.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
heavyweight
Care
Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft Semi Spread
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Soft Front Placket
Pocket
Utility Pockets
Yoke
One Piece Yoke
Hem
Straight Hem
Buttons
Brown Horn
Stitching
0.25″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$195

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.