Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
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Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Autumn/Winter 2025

Navy Wool Four-Pocket Camp Collar Work Shirt

Drake's navy work shirt is an overshirt cut from brushed wool flannel and made in Italy. It draws on the plain, pocketed shirts of the workshop and is meant to sit between a shirt and a light jacket. The camp collar, square one-button cuffs and straight, stepped hem keep it relaxed, while the four patch pockets give it real use. It is designed to be worn open over a T-shirt or knit, or buttoned as a shirt, through the cooler months.

The original, on drakes.com

In Proper Cloth

Thomas Mason Navy Melange Cotton and Cashmere Flannel

We looked for a solid navy flannel with a brushed surface and settled on a Thomas Mason cotton and cashmere blend, since it gives a soft, warm hand and a melange depth close to the wool's. We set a soft one-piece collar to stand in for the camp collar, one-button barrel cuffs, a straight hem and mother-of-pearl buttons. Proper Cloth's options did not include the pointed button-less flap or the stepped hem, so we chose rounded flap pockets without buttons and a plain straight hem, with a French front in place of a sewn placket.

A medium-weight flannel from Thomas Mason in 85% cotton and 15% cashmere, woven in a pronounced twill and lightly brushed for a smooth, soft finish. It is a solid navy melange with a quietly mottled surface. It should be air dried, as the yarn and weave shrink more than ordinary shirting.

Composition
85% Cotton, 15% Cashmere
Weight
medium weight
Care
Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft One Piece
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
French Front
Pocket
Rounded Flap No Button Pockets
Yoke
One Piece Yoke
Hem
Straight Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.25″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$325

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.