Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2024

Navy Irish Linen Smock

Drake's smock is a light outer layer that draws on the pullover smocks once worn by painters and labourers alike. It is cut in pure Irish linen, short at the hip and a little loose through the body, and fastens at the neck with a single button and thread loop. It is made in the company's Somerset factory and suits mild, changeable spring weather, worn over a T-shirt as a light shell.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Baird McNutt Navy Irish Linen

We chose a navy Irish linen from Baird McNutt because it matches the original's fibre, origin, colour and light weight, and its uneven slubby surface comes close to the texture seen on the Drake's piece. We set the shirt as a popover with a rounded patch pocket, a straight hem and pale cream horn buttons to echo the original's single light button. Proper Cloth has no camp collar or loop closure, so we used a soft one-piece collar for a similar open, casual line and a standard popover placket in place of the loop at the neck.

A plain-weave navy linen woven, dyed and finished by Baird McNutt, the Northern Irish mill on the Kellswater River. It is lightweight and soft, at 26s, with the irregular slubbed texture typical of linen, and it creases and softens with wear as linen does.

Composition
100% Linen
Weight
lightweight
Care
Though it’s historically been used in many different environments for its insulating properties, we’re all familiar with linen’s fantastic lightness and breathability in hotter climates, and this one delivers beyond expectation. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft One Piece
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Popover
Pocket
Rounded Pocket
Yoke
One Piece Yoke
Hem
Straight Hem
Buttons
Cream Horn
Stitching
0.25″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
No sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$185

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.