After Drake’s · Autumn/Winter 2025
Black Barathea Wool Dinner Jacket
This is a single-breasted dinner jacket in black barathea, made in Italy and built on the long-standing black-tie convention of one button and peak lapels. The lapels are faced in grosgrain, the breast pocket is a curved barchetta welt and the hip pockets are jetted without flaps, so the front stays clean. It is cut in the house manner with a soft, natural shoulder and light structure. It is meant to be worn for evening occasions with the usual black-tie accompaniments.
In Proper Cloth
Peak Lapel VBC Allen Tuxedo Jacket
We chose a black worsted wool from Vitale Barberis Canonico because it was the closest plain black evening cloth available, although it is a twill and not a barathea. We matched the main features of the jacket: a single-button peak lapel front, jetted pockets, four-button kissing cuffs and a full black lining, on a soft half-canvassed construction to suit the original's gentle shoulder. Self-covered buttons were not available here, so we fitted black faux horn buttons. The jacket also has side vents.
The cloth is a solid black S110s merino worsted from Vitale Barberis Canonico in Italy, woven as a twill at about 270 g. It is smooth and of medium weight, with the fine diagonal rib of a twill in place of barathea's pebbled texture. A worsted like this keeps its shape and recovers well between wearings.
- Composition
- 100% Merino Wool
- Weight
- medium weight
- Care
- Professionally Dry-Clean Only
Options
- Construction
- Soft Half-Canvassed (change this in Customize)
- Style
- One Button Peak Lapel (change this in Customize)
- Lining coverage
- Lined
- Vents
- Side Vents
- Pockets
- Jetted
- Buttons
- Black Faux Horn (change this in Customize)
- Sleeve buttons
- Four Button Kissing
- Lining
- Black
- Under collar
- Black
- Pocket lining
- Black
- Inside pockets
- Standard Interior Pockets
- Sleeve lining
- Striped
$845
Opens the Peak Lapel VBC Allen Tuxedo Jacket in this cloth. In Customize, change the options marked , then choose your size.