Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
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Proper Cloth’s Peak Lapel VBC Allen Tuxedo Jacket in this cloth, in its standard design, from propercloth.com

After Drake’s · Autumn/Winter 2025

Black Wool Shawl Collar Tuxedo Blazer

A single-breasted dinner jacket in black wool, made in Italy and sold as half of a suit with matching trousers. It takes the shawl collar dinner jacket of formal evening dress and puts it on Drake's softer house cut, unlined and with a natural shoulder. Patch pockets at the hip and a curved welt pocket at the chest make it less formal than a strict black tie jacket, so it suits evening events where some ease is wanted.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Peak Lapel VBC Allen Tuxedo Jacket

We chose a black Italian wool twill from Vitale Barberis Canonico because it matches the original's colour, weave and fibre. We set a one-button shawl collar, patch hip pockets and a four-button cuff to follow the Drake's jacket, with soft half-canvas construction for a gentle shoulder. Proper Cloth's build is quarter lined rather than fully unlined, and the jacket was made with black faux horn buttons and side vents instead of covered buttons.

A black S110s merino wool twill woven in Italy by Vitale Barberis Canonico, at 270 g. It is smooth and of medium weight, a plain solid black with a fine diagonal twill, and is suited to evening wear for most of the year.

Composition
100% Merino Wool
Weight
medium weight
Care
Professionally Dry-Clean Only

Options

Construction
Soft Half-Canvassed (change this in Customize)
Style
One Button Shawl Lapel (change this in Customize)
Lining coverage
Quarter Lined (change this in Customize)
Vents
Side Vents
Pockets
Patch (change this in Customize)
Buttons
Black Faux Horn (change this in Customize)
Sleeve buttons
Four Button Kissing
Lining
Black
Under collar
Black
Pocket lining
Black
Inside pockets
Standard Interior Pockets
Sleeve lining
Striped

$845

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens the Peak Lapel VBC Allen Tuxedo Jacket in this cloth. In Customize, change the options marked , then choose your size.