Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s Peak Lapel VBC Allen Tuxedo Jacket in this cloth, in its standard design, from propercloth.com

After Drake’s · Autumn/Winter 2025

Black Barathea Wool Double-Breasted Dinner Jacket

This is a double-breasted dinner jacket for black tie, cut in black worsted barathea, the ribbed matte cloth long used for evening dress. Drake's gives it a soft construction and natural shoulder in the house silhouette, so it is less rigid than a traditional formal coat. Grosgrain-faced peak lapels, covered buttons in a six-by-two arrangement and a curved barchetta breast pocket set it in the formal tradition. It is made in Italy and meant for evening occasions, from dinners to dancing.

The original, on drakes.com

In Proper Cloth

Peak Lapel VBC Allen Tuxedo Jacket

We chose a black S110s worsted from Vitale Barberis Canonico, the closest plain black evening wool on offer, because Proper Cloth had no barathea for this model. We matched the double-breasted peak lapel front with six buttons, a soft half-canvassed build, a full lining, side vents and jetted hip pockets to keep the clean lines of the original. Proper Cloth did not offer covered buttons here, so we used black faux horn, and the cloth is a fine twill rather than a barathea rib.

A black S110s merino worsted twill woven in Italy by Vitale Barberis Canonico, listed at 270 g and described as medium weight. It is smooth with a fine diagonal twill rather than a pebbled rib. As a worsted it should hold a press well and keep its shape through regular evening wear.

Composition
100% Merino Wool
Weight
medium weight
Care
Professionally Dry-Clean Only

Options

Construction
Soft Half-Canvassed (change this in Customize)
Style
Six Button Double Breasted Peak Lapel (change this in Customize)
Lining coverage
Lined
Vents
Side Vents
Pockets
Jetted
Buttons
Black Faux Horn (change this in Customize)
Sleeve buttons
Four Button Kissing
Lining
Black
Under collar
Black
Pocket lining
Black
Inside pockets
Standard Interior Pockets
Sleeve lining
Striped

$845

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens the Peak Lapel VBC Allen Tuxedo Jacket in this cloth. In Customize, change the options marked , then choose your size.