Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
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Proper Cloth’s Biella Navy Stretch Moleskin 5-Pocket in this cloth, in its standard design, from propercloth.com

After Drake’s · Autumn/Winter 2022

St. JOHN by Drake's French Navy Moleskin Five-Pocket Trousers

A five-pocket trouser in French navy moleskin, made in Portugal as a limited edition under Drake's St. JOHN label. It follows the familiar jeans pattern but uses a heavy yarn-dyed cotton moleskin from Tuscany in place of denim, which gives it a softer surface and a more muted look. The cut is slim with a straight leg and a mid-rise, so it can be worn as a casual trouser or with a jacket.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Biella Navy Stretch Moleskin 5-Pocket

We chose a solid navy moleskin from Proper Cloth's range, as it is the closest match in colour and surface to the Drake's cloth. We set the trousers in the five-pocket pattern with a zip fly, belt loops, metal tack buttons and a chain-stitched hem to follow the original's jeans-style construction. Proper Cloth's moleskin contains a small amount of elastane and is lighter than the 20oz original, so we accepted a little stretch and less weight in exchange for the same colour and finish.

A navy moleskin from Progetto Uno, an Olympias Group mill near Venice, in 97% cotton and 3% elastane. It is a medium-heavy cloth with a smooth, brushed face similar to chamois, and it is soft to the hand while remaining hard-wearing.

Composition
97% Cotton · 3% Elastane
Weight
medium heavyweight
Care
Machine wash with cold, non-chlorine bleach, air dry

Options

Style
5-Pocket
Front pockets
5-Pocket
Back pockets
Jeans Style Patch Pocket
Fly
Zipper Fly
Buttons
Metal Tack Buttons (change this in Customize)
Waistband
Belt Loops
Front
No Pleats
Coin pocket
5-Pocket Coin Pocket
Cargo pockets
None
Closure
5-Pocket
Hem
Chain Stitch Hem
Pocketing
Blue Chambray
Thread
Dark Navy (change this in Customize)

$215

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens the Biella Navy Stretch Moleskin 5-Pocket in this cloth. In Customize, change the options marked , then choose your size.