Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
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Proper Cloth’s VBC Black S110s Wool Dress Pant in this cloth, in its standard design, from propercloth.com

After Drake’s · Autumn/Winter 2024

Black Barathea Wool Single Pleat Dinner Trousers

These are black dinner trousers in barathea wool, cut to go with Drake's matching dinner jacket for evening dress. They follow the old conventions of formal trousers. A grosgrain stripe runs down each leg and the waistband is trimmed in grosgrain. The waist is built to be worn with braces, with an extended tab, side adjusters and a curtained interior. Each single forward pleat falls into a straight, tailored leg, and the rear hem is split so the trousers sit cleanly over evening shoes.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

VBC Black S110s Wool Dress Pant

We chose a black Vitale Barberis Canonico wool in a similar middle weight, since Proper Cloth does not offer a barathea, and we looked for the deep, even black that dinner trousers need. We kept the single pleats, the extended button tab, the brace buttons, the zip fly and the buttoned back pocket. Proper Cloth could not supply the grosgrain stripe, the grosgrain waistband trim, the buckle side adjusters or the split hem, so this version is closer to a plain black dress trouser that can be worn with braces. It has belt loops and side seam pockets, and it is lined at the knee rather than half lined.

An S110s merino wool twill from Vitale Barberis Canonico in Italy, about 270 g. It is a smooth, solid black with an even, deep colour. It is a suiting weight that can be worn through most of the year.

Composition
100% Merino Wool
Weight
medium weight
Care
Professionally Dry-Clean Only

Options

Style
Dress Trouser
Hem
No Cuff
Waistband
Belt Loops
Buttons
Black Faux Horn (change this in Customize)
Fly
Zipper
Brace buttons
Yes (change this in Customize)
Closure
Extended Button Tab (change this in Customize)
Side pockets
Side Seam Pockets (change this in Customize)
Back pockets
Standard with Button
Coin pocket
None (change this in Customize)
Front
Single Pleats (change this in Customize)
Knee lining
Striped

$375

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens the VBC Black S110s Wool Dress Pant in this cloth. In Customize, change the options marked , then choose your size.