Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Autumn/Winter 2024

Striped Denim Cotton Button-Down Shirt

Drake's treats the denim button-down as one of the foundations of its range, a shirt type with roots in workwear that has stayed in use for about a hundred years. This version is cut in a lightweight cotton chambray with a fine blue and white pinstripe, and is made in the firm's Somerset factory. It has a regular silhouette, single-needle seams and a soft button-down collar meant to roll, so it can be worn with tailoring or more casually.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Albiate Light Wash Indigo Denim

We kept the shape of the original: a soft button-down collar, a front placket, one-button cuffs, a single flap chest pocket and mother of pearl buttons. Proper Cloth had no fine-striped chambray to match, so we chose a garment-washed light indigo denim from Albiate, which keeps the faded blue character of the original but is plain rather than striped. We added a split yoke and a shallow curved hem from the options available. The cuffs are barrel cuffs, and the specification does not record the box pleat or the rounded cuff corners of the original.

A 100% cotton twill from the Italian mill Albiate, dyed heavily with indigo and garment washed with bleach after sewing. This gives a light indigo shade with slight tonal variation and fading along the seams. It is listed as medium weight, with a smooth finish and a soft drape.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
medium weight
Care
The light indigo color of this fabric features subtle variation and is achieved through the reaction of the indigo dye with a heavy bleach wash. From sourcing the perfect denim from Japan and a 185-year-old mill in Italy to testing washes with our factory for months on end, we labor over every detail of our washed indigo shirts. After being cut and sewn, the shirts are then garment washed using either a light enzyme, soda, or bleaching process. While garment washed indigo and denim shirts are a popular product in the ready-to-wear market, they haven‘t previously been available in a custom fit or design due to the bulk production required for the washing process. We‘ve worked closely with our suppliers to bring you the first truly custom garment washed indigo and denim shirts on the market. Premium, carefully crafted shirts, made to your exact specifications. Learn more about our washed indigo and denim shirts here. Note that, due to the special nature of the garment washing process, this fabric can only be made using soft, unfused collars, cuffs, and fronts/plackets. Since our limited-run garment washed indigo and denim fabrics are made in small batches with a special process, fabric swatches are not available. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft Ivy Button Down
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Soft Front Placket
Pocket
Single Flap Pocket
Yoke
Split Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.25″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$235

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.