Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
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Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2025

Blue Cotton Chambray Spread Collar Popover Shirt

A long-sleeved popover in plain blue cotton chambray, made in Italy. The shape draws on the work shirt, with a half placket that buttons to mid-chest and two map pockets taken from workwear, while the spread collar, single-needle seams and mother of pearl buttons follow the house's dress shirting. It is a shirt for everyday wear, equally suited to being tucked in or worn loose.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Portuguese Light Wash Indigo Slub Chambray

We chose a light wash indigo slub chambray from Portugal for its soft, faded blue and the uneven surface typical of an old work shirt. We kept the popover front, a soft spread collar and mother of pearl buttons as on the original. Proper Cloth's design set as made has a single square chest pocket rather than two map pockets, and the cloth is heavier than the lightweight original, so the result reads as a sturdier work shirt.

A 100% cotton chambray woven in Portugal from 20s yarns, with an indigo warp across a white weft. It comes in a light wash, so the blue looks soft and faded from new, and slub yarns give the solid surface an irregular texture. It sits at a medium heavyweight, breathes well and softens with washing.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
medium heavyweight
Care
A light wash indigo slub chambray from Portugal, with the broken-in texture of a well-worn work shirt. This one comes in a light wash, so the indigo looks soft and faded from the first wear. It’s woven in Portugal from 100% cotton, breathes easily, and softens with every wash. Tuck it into khaki chinos under a waxed field jacket, or wear it open over a white tee with rinse-wash denim. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft English Spread
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Popover
Pocket
Single Square Pocket
Yoke
Split Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.25″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$195

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.