Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Autumn/Winter 2024

Green and Red Madras Check Cotton Button-Down Popover Shirt

Drake's popover shirt is cut from madras, the hand-spun cotton check named after the Indian city now called Chennai, where the cloth is woven. The yarn is a short-staple cotton spun by hand, which gives the fabric its uneven, slubby surface, and the colours come from natural dyes that are expected to run and soften with washing. The shirt is made in the company's Somerset factory with a half placket, a button-down collar and a pen pocket, and is intended as a light summer shirt to be pulled on over the head.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Portuguese Grey Red and Green Plaid Twill

We kept the shape of the original: a popover front, a soft button-down collar, one-button cuffs, a single chest pocket and mother of pearl buttons. Proper Cloth offers no hand-spun madras, so we chose a cotton plaid in a similar red and green palette, a twill from the Portuguese mill Somelos with a grey ground. This gives a smoother, heavier shirt for cooler months in place of the open, slubby summer cloth. The cuff, yoke and hem follow Proper Cloth's standard options, and the box pleat is not part of the design as made.

A single-ply 50s cotton twill woven by Somelos in Portugal, which Proper Cloth describes as soft and medium in weight. It is a plaid of grey, red and green, and is made as a casual shirting for autumn and winter, an alternative to flannel.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
lightweight
Care
Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft Ivy Button Down
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Popover
Pocket
Rounded Pocket
Yoke
One Piece Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.2″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$175

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.