Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Autumn/Winter 2022

ALD / Drake's Brown Wool Work Shirt

This is a shirt from the Transatlantic capsule Drake's made with Aimé Leon Dore, which put the English house's relaxed tailoring alongside the New York label's urban style. It takes the outdoor work shirt as its model: a long-sleeved brushed wool flannel with two flapped chest pockets that do the carrying in place of the trouser pockets. It was made in Somerset with single-needle seams and corozo buttons, and has a soft open collar and rounded cuffs. It is meant to be worn loosely and casually, either alone or as a light layer.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Thomas Mason Brown Cotton and Cashmere Flannel

We kept the warm brown solid flannel and the soft brushed surface. We did not use pure wool and chose a Thomas Mason flannel of cotton with some cashmere, at a similar medium weight. The two pleated, flapped chest pockets became Proper Cloth's safari pockets. A soft one-piece collar stands in for the open camp collar, and corozo buttons, a one-button cuff and a curved hem follow the original. The configurator adds a one-piece yoke, which the original does not have, and the box pleat at the centre back is not part of the design as made.

A flannel from the Thomas Mason mill in 85% cotton and 15% cashmere, woven in a clear twill and lightly brushed for a smooth, soft, warm hand at medium weight. It is a plain warm brown. It should be air dried, since the yarn and weave shrink more than ordinary shirting.

Composition
85% Cotton, 15% Cashmere
Weight
medium weight
Care
Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft One Piece
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Soft Front Placket
Pocket
Safari Pockets
Yoke
One Piece Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Natural Corozo
Stitching
0.25″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$325

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