Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
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Proper Cloth’s swatch of Japanese Gold and Navy Low Twist Plaid

After Drake’s · Autumn/Winter 2026

Brown and Navy Linen-Wool Smock

The smock started out as working dress by the water, worn by deckhands and dock labourers as a tough outer layer against wind, spray and hard use. Drake's version is a pullover with a short two-button placket, a relaxed body that stops at the hip, twin patch pockets on the chest and corozo buttons. It is cut from a brushed linen and wool plaid and made in Portugal. It works as a casual overshirt, and suits the town as well as the coast.

The original, on drakes.com

In Proper Cloth

Japanese Gold and Navy Low Twist Plaid

We chose a heavy Japanese cotton twill in gold and navy plaid because its rough, tweed-like surface and weight are close to the brushed linen-wool of the original, even though the fibre is different. We kept the popover front, plain barrel cuffs, straight hem and natural corozo buttons. Proper Cloth offered no open camp collar, so we used a soft one-piece collar instead, and we made it with a single square chest pocket rather than two.

A very heavy low-twist cotton twill from a small Japanese mill that makes casual cloths. It is woven from 20s three-ply yarns, which tighten the weave and add body. The gold and navy plaid has irregular, varied colouring that reads almost like tweed, and the cloth has a soft, rustic hand suited to cold-weather wear.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
very heavyweight
Care
Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft One Piece
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Popover
Pocket
Single Square Pocket
Yoke
One Piece Yoke
Hem
Straight Hem
Buttons
Natural Corozo
Stitching
0.25″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$195

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