Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
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Proper Cloth’s VBC Charcoal Wool Flannel Downing Jacket in this cloth, in its standard design, from propercloth.com

After Drake’s · Autumn/Winter 2026

Grey Wool-Cotton Twill Tailored Jacket

A single-breasted tailored jacket in charcoal grey, cut as half of a suit and made in Italy. It has Drake's house shape: a natural, soft shoulder, light waist suppression and fairly wide notch lapels with a full belly, buttoned in a 3-roll-2 stance. Inside it is fully canvassed, with a chest shaped by hand, and the collar and sleeves are set by hand. A buggy lining keeps the back light. It is meant to be worn with its matching trousers or on its own with separates.

The original, on drakes.com

In Proper Cloth

VBC Charcoal Wool Flannel Downing Jacket

We picked a plain charcoal cloth from Vitale Barberis Canonico. That keeps the original's solid grey and its Italian source, though it is an all-wool flannel and not a wool-cotton twill. We set the jacket up to match the original's structure: soft full canvas, a 3-two roll notch lapel, flap hip pockets with a ticket pocket, four-button cuffs and dark grey horn buttons. Proper Cloth's option for this design was a lined jacket, not a buggy lining, so the inside is lined in dark grey with striped sleeve linings.

A merino wool flannel from Vitale Barberis Canonico of Biella, at a medium heavyweight. It is brushed to a soft, slightly fuzzy surface, and its charcoal ground is mottled. It is a cloth for autumn and winter. Its surface is softer and warmer than a clear-finished twill.

Composition
100% Wool
Weight
medium heavyweight
Care
Professionally Dry-Clean Only

Options

Construction
Soft Fully-Canvassed (change this in Customize)
Style
Three-Two Roll Notch Lapel (change this in Customize)
Lining coverage
Lined
Vents
Side Vents
Pockets
Flap with Ticket Pocket (change this in Customize)
Buttons
Dark Grey Horn
Sleeve buttons
Four Button Kissing (change this in Customize)
Lining
Dark Grey
Under collar
Dark Grey (change this in Customize)
Pocket lining
Dark Grey
Inside pockets
Standard Interior Pockets
Sleeve lining
Striped

$945

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens the VBC Charcoal Wool Flannel Downing Jacket in this cloth. In Customize, change the options marked , then choose your size.